Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

I have definitely overused the word refreshing, but that is precisely how to describe my last few days.  Although I can appreciate the beauty and antiquity of Italy's cities, and thoroughly loved my time in each, being back on the coast with open space and a stretching horizon not congested with cruise ships is oh so sweet.  Sorrento was described to me by one of my new Napoli friends as the "resort town where Americans and Australians go to get drunk." Sign me up!  Just kidding, despite the not so charming description, I still had heard from other people that it's a beautiful town, and a great jumping off point to explore the Amalfi Coast.  And they have a hostel with a pool- sold!   I am thrilled I followed the pro-Sorrento advice. Not only did I have the 5 bed room and bathroom to myself, but I had a chance to enjoy and reflect on traveling solo with a cocktail and a good nights rest. Priceless commodities when traveling via hostels. 

Alas, Sorrento was as described on both fronts.  I saw more Americans here in higher concentration than I have elsewhere, and it's a sweet not-so-small town with pedestrian only historical streets, gelato and vino on every block, and lemon-themed shops around every corner.  This region is famous for its citrus, and is the heart and birthplace of the much-to-sweet for my taste lemoncello.  I also may have had more than my fill of lemoncello in Florence, but that's a story I'd rather not relive. 

I took a bus to Positano yesterday, and it made me wish I could spend another week or three exploring Southern Italy's coastline.  Positano is a small, seaside bay town with tourist shops, restaurants and bars, much like we've seen farther up the coast.  While the basic coastal scenery descriptions sound the same, Positano yet again feels very different from the towns farther north.  Cinque Terre, although filled city end to city end with tourists, still retained an air of a small fishing village that just so happened to have tons of restaurants and trinket shops.  Positano felt like a deliberate resort town with much more character than Laguna Beach or Capitola, and much cheaper wine.  With the cathedral (always, it seems) in the middle of the town square area, you look out from its veranda at turquoise water and custom, freshly varnished boats bobbing in the gentle waves (as opposed to the violent, boulder throwing waves of Camogli).  All of the water colors and oil paintings you've ever seen of the Italian coast are probably from Amalfi, and it really does look just like that. 

The weather was clear and warm, and the topless sunbathers were out in force.  I had a lovely time hiking up and down the towns steep streets and never ending staircases.

The best part of my day was towards the end when I ordered a glass of white wine at a beach side bar, and was handed a bowl of potato chips, Greek olives, and animal crackers.  Delicious combination.  Okay, so the snacks weren't the best part, although they ranked pretty high up there.  Sitting out there watching wind surfers careen by unsuspecting swimmers, I felt for the first time relaxed and just happy to consciously be experiencing the scene in front of me.  See it sounds strange, but traveling with a massive backpack and a map, always trying not to look like a tourist and stumbling over the coveted local language, can all be incredibly adventurous and personally expansive, but is also incredibly exhausting.  

 (Said backpack)

Don't get me wrong. The journey from city to city by train, plane and bus has been as interesting and fun as arriving in each place, but is also physically and mentally demanding in ways that family travel or travel with rollie luggage just isn't.  I'm not whining, I'm just being honest.  Yesterday I simply got to sit, wearing my breezy dress and carrying a purse with only my wallet and my camera, and I so thoroughly enjoyed the destination.  I drank the wine and ate the olives (okay, and all the potato chips and animal crackers), and I let myself just be there.  I'd didn't try and tie the moment to something bigger or some larger idea (like I'm doing now), I didn't try to "soak it all in," or explore the streets I had yet to see.  I just tuned out mentally and tuned in physically to the waves and the heat and the wine.  I watched the wind surfers almost take out the swimmers, and I laughed and was okay to be sitting and eating and drinking alone when everyone around me had someone else.  And it was the best day I've had in a really, really long time.